Zapotec Indians are the largest indigenous group in the Ciudad Oaxaca
area. On the outskirts of Teotitlan del Valle, a village near the capital
city, Benito Hernandez cultivates dyes like his Zapotec ancestors have done
for centuries. To make red dye, he infects cactus petals with tiny white
parasites. When the females are mature, he removes the bugs from the cacti,
drys and grinds them into a fine red powder. The powder mixed with different
elements is then used to color cotton or wool.
Years of making fine lines and small colored dots have made this artisan
from the Ramirez-Ruiz family cross-eyed. In Arrazola, the "alebrijes"
she works on sustain not only her village's economy but the capital city's
as well. People travel from all over the world to collect these artisans'
work.
Every year during the holy week, starting with Palm Sunday and ending
Easter Sunday, artisans from all over Oaxaca del Valle come to sell their
work to thousands of tourists in the city. Booths line Calle del Alcala
leading up to the Zocolo, a square bursting with commerce. Indigenous women
weave rugs and scarves, embroider blouses and whip chocolate drinks hoping
to pique the interest of these foreigners. These artisans may travel two
hours every day to sell their work. Some will make enough money to live
on for half a year.
"Pase" they say as you walk by their living rooms converted
into tiny boutiques. In the village of San Martin-Tilcajete, tiny wood animal
figurines are what pay the bills. Almost every residence has a store selling
"alebrijes" and a young child trying to solicit your business.
This boy waited as members of a ULV group looked at figurines next door
so that he could also entice them to come in and have a look at what his
family had to offer.
Bugs in the market might bring an "F" rating in La Verne, but
in Oaxaca, they are delicatessen. People like "Jessica" arrive
at Mercado Centro Abasto at 5 a.m., to sell seasoned crickets or "chapolines"
A large plastic bag might cost a dollar.
In the Aguilar family everyone has a role in producing statues, the main
export of Villa Octotlan, a village outside Ciudad Oaxaca. One molds the
clay, another fires the oven, and others may paint, but they all smile at
customers in hopes of making a sale. Covered in clay and paint, a member
of the Aguilar family works on a statue. He chuckled when he admitted this
statue was a replica of an American "turista."